Hublot’s latest Essential Series release takes the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang somewhere unexpected. Taupe, of all colours. A quiet, warm, and slightly dusty taupe. The kind of tone that’s usually reserved for cashmere interiors in old Bentleys or the suede lining of a Berluti shoe bag, not for a brand that built much of its modern identity impressing people with a “Bing Bang”.
Still, it works. Better than expected, actually.
The new Spirit of Big Bang Essential Taupe arrives in two sizes – 42 mm and 32 mm – both limited to 200 pieces and sold exclusively online. Hublot has done these annual “Essential” editions before, always centred on a single monochromatic theme, though earlier iterations leaned heavily into shades of grey. Grey felt industrial. Taupe feels more mature. Less eager to announce itself across the room.
The larger 42 mm model remains recognisably Spirit of Big Bang, with its elongated tonneau case, layered construction, exposed screws, and enough facets to catch every stray beam of light in a restaurant. The case is titanium throughout, including the side bumpers that Hublot usually renders in rubber. That detail matters more than it sounds; the metal bumpers sharpen the watch visually and give the case a cleaner continuity.
At 14.1 mm thick, it still has presence. You’ll know it’s there on the wrist. But the muted palette softens the architecture considerably. For once, the case shape takes centre stage rather than the colour.
The dial deserves a closer look too. Hublot borrowed the closed chequerboard motif first seen on the Coal Blue collection earlier this year, though here the execution feels richer because of the monochromatic treatment. The woven pattern alternates satin-brushed and polished squares, creating a texture that almost resembles carbon fibre viewed through soft focus. Under direct light, the dial shifts constantly. It’s surprisingly nuanced for a brand often accused of subtlety deficiency.
The chronograph registers sit deep within the dial, framed and snailed, while the peripheral track picks up matching grooves that tie the whole composition together neatly. Even then, legibility remains strong thanks to luminous numerals and broad hands. Hublot tends to over-style details occasionally, but this one feels disciplined.
Inside sits the HUB4700, essentially a modernised descendant of the Zenith El Primero. That alone gives the watch a certain credibility among collectors who still care about what powers the thing beneath the dial. The movement runs at 5 Hz, delivers 1/10th-second chronograph timing, and offers about 50 hours of power reserve. Through the sapphire back, the architecture still carries traces of the original El Primero layout, which enthusiasts will recognise instantly.
The more interesting release, oddly enough, may be the smaller 32 mm model.
For the first time, Hublot has omitted the diamond-set bezel on the smaller Spirit of Big Bang. A sensible decision. Diamond bezels tend to push watches into a very specific lane, and removing them opens the design considerably. The result feels cleaner, more architectural, and honestly more contemporary. Plenty of collectors — men included — will probably find this version more compelling than previous iterations.
The stainless steel case measures 10.8mm thick and retains the same tonneau silhouette, though the proportions work particularly well at this size. There’s a cleaner elegance here. The smooth taupe flange slopes inward while applied markers stretch outward across the dial, creating depth without unnecessary decoration.
Inside is the HUB1120 automatic calibre, based on the Sellita SW1000. Reliable, compact, practical. No fireworks, though nobody buying the 32 mm Spirit of Big Bang expects a high-frequency chronograph movement anyway.
Both watches come fitted with Hublot’s One Click strap-change system and include two interchangeable taupe straps in rubber and fabric. Naturally, everything matches. Hublot committed fully to the monochrome idea here, and credit where due — they resisted the temptation to add some unnecessary accent colour just to prove they could.
Each version is limited to 200 pieces and sold exclusively through Hublot. The 42mm chronograph is priecd at CHF 20,600 / EUR 24,300 and the 32mm automatic costs CHF 12,400 / EUR 14,600.
