URWERK is closing out its famed UR-230 trilogy with the “Black Star”, a limited run of 35 watches built around a new composite ceramic case and the brand’s signature wandering hours display. Priced at a cool $198,000, this watch sits firmly in URWERK’s core territory: experimental materials, visible mechanics, and intentional scarcity.
“Black Star” follows “Eagle” and “Polaris” as the final chapter in a three-watch sequence built around materials, mechanics, and atmosphere rather than seasonal trends. Each version explored a different emotional register. This one moves inward, toward depth and shadow.
The Final Chapter of the UR-230 Story
The trilogy began with “Eagle,” all carbon fiber and exposed texture, sharp in both look and intent. “Polaris” came next, rendered in mineral-white ceramic with a sense of clarity and precision. “Black Star” completes the arc by shifting the focus to darkness as a material choice.
Martin Frei connected the idea to the astrophysical concept of a black star, a celestial body that gathers light and releases it in fragments. On the wrist, that translates into a case that absorbs most reflections while sending back small flashes as it moves. The surface feels active, responsive, and layered.
A New Composite Ceramic Case
To achieve that effect, URWERK developed a laminated composite ceramic specifically for this watch. Braided ceramic, fiberglass, and carbon fiber are combined within a polymer matrix, then machined to reveal a subtle relief beneath a smooth exterior. The result carries depth rather than shine.
The upper case uses this composite ceramic. The back switches to black DLC-coated titanium, chosen for strength and comfort. The two materials work together to form a case that feels engineered rather than ornamental.
Felix Baumgartner’s interest in ceramic comes through in the sharp lines and controlled surfaces. The material choice supports the architecture of the watch rather than competing with it.
A Titanium Safe for the Movement
Inside the case sits a titanium container that URWERK describes as a mechanical safe. The automatic caliber UR-7.30 lives inside this capsule, isolated at the center of the structure. The watch becomes a layered system, with the movement protected by multiple shells.
This approach allows the exterior to explore form and material while the core remains stable and secure. It’s a solution that reflects URWERK’s long-standing focus on structural thinking.
Wandering Hours in Three Dimensions
The dial features URWERK’s signature wandering hours display, rendered as a three-dimensional mechanism. Three cube-shaped satellites rotate around a central hub. Each cube carries four hour numerals, and one satellite at a time travels across a 120-degree minute scale at the bottom of the display.
A sculptural retrograde minutes hand traces that arc before snapping back at the hour change. The display emphasizes motion and sequence, turning time into something that unfolds rather than sits still.
A Caseback Designed for Interaction
On the reverse, the UR-7.30 shows off its dual turbine system. One turbine manages shocks. The other regulates airflow and rotor speed. A selector on the caseback allows the wearer to adjust the automatic winding behavior, from active to reduced to manual.
Two indicators positioned near eleven and one o’clock display the selected setting. The caseback feels functional and intentional, offering a direct connection to the mechanics inside.
Darkness as Structure and Atmosphere
Across the watch, the “Black Star” concept remains consistent. The composite ceramic reveals depth through movement. The time display emerges from shadow as the satellites cross the minute track. Details appear gradually, encouraging close observation.
Darkness here works as structure and atmosphere, shaping how the watch is experienced rather than simply how it looks.
With production limited to 35 pieces, the UR-230 “Black Star” completes the trilogy alongside “Eagle” and “Polaris.” It brings the UR-230 story to a focused conclusion, aligning materials, mechanics, and intent into a single statement from URWERK.
