I’ve always been a mountain person. Give me jagged peaks, a breeze cold enough to wake you up better than any double espresso, and those endless shades of deep greens, slate grays and blues, that you can only find when you’re surrounded by mountains.. and I’m happy.
For years the Alps – especially the Dolomites – have been my go to place when I wanted some peace and quiet. We’re there almost every single year, but there was still one big part of the Alps we didn’t get to see yet, that kept popping up in photos and reels lately, like a not so subtle nudge: the Julian Alps in Slovenia.
A few months ago, we finally stopped dreaming and talking about it and just went there.
We packed our bags, drove across the border, and passed by Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana. And suddenly, the whole landscape shifted. You go from sleepy little villages and lush green hills to these massive, vertical walls of rock that look like a painting coming to life. That’s how you get to Lake Bohinj.
If Lake Bled is the flashy celebrity everyone knows and wants to take photos with, Bohinj is the quiet sibling that actually steals the show. No crowds, no chaos. Just a massive, ice-blue mirror guarded by some of the highest peaks of the Triglav National Park. It doesn’t even seem to be trying.
It probably took us only around five seconds to fall in love with this place. Every turn in the road made us wonder why we’d waited so long to come here.
Mornings there started with this soft mist just… hanging over the water. The days felt slower. We spent them finding forest trails, hidden waterfalls, and those tiny bridges that make you want to quit your job and move to the mountains. But Bohinj is not just “pretty.” It’s a gateway to the region’s heavy hitters: Slap Savica, Mostnica Gorge, and the Vogel cable car.
Honestly, whether you’re there to hike or just to hit pause, the Julian Alps take care of you. Plus, we had a bit of extra magic on this trip.
We split our time between two spots. First, two nights at the gorgeous Vila Muhr, which was the kind of alpine hideaway you secretly hope stays a secret. Then, two nights at its sister property, the chic Hotel Bohinj, that’s literally just a few steps away.
Both properties gave us a totally different “vibe”: one very intimate, luxurious and historic, the other one rooted in local character and modern elegance. But first, let’s start with the place that stole our hearts the second we walked through the door: Vila Muhr!
First Impressions
We turned off the main road and pulled into the lot, and honestly? You could just tell we were in the right place. It’s one of those rare spots where you don’t just “check in”, you actually feel like you’ve arrived somewhere.
Vila Muhr sort of peeks out from the trees. It’s a mix of dark timber and clean lines with this quiet, steady energy that basically tells you to finally stop and breathe. You wouldn’t know just by looking at it that this place used to host kings and dukes. It doesn’t brag. It just sits there, letting the mountains do the talking.
But the details really get you once you get closer. The charred wood, the stone base – which is actually from the original 1902 build – and the balconies that look like they’re just floating over the forest. You feel its historic past before you even hear the stories.
Walking up to the front door, we really had a “wait, is this really where we’re going to sleep?” moment. It didn’t feel like a hotel at all. It felt like someone’s private chalet. Someone with incredible taste and, apparently, a direct line to European royal history.
And the inside? That’s where it really hits you.
Soft lighting. Natural textures wherever you turned your head. Pine-scented air that made you feel like you’re sleeping in a mountain cabin, except you were definitely not.
Vila Muhr is a restored hunting lodge where royalty literally debated European politics over a hundred years ago, but it’s not flashy. No gold, no pomp. Just thoughtful design and warm wood. Everything there has a story.
The staff greeted us with the kind of hospitality that makes your shoulders drop a few inches immediately. Nothing was rushed. It just felt like they really loved the place and wanted us to feel the same.
By the time we got to our suite, we just knew we picked the right place for this trip. With the lake just a short walk away and those dramatic mountains framing everything, Vila Muhr was exactly what we needed: history, nature, and that specific kind of peaceful luxury.
Two nights there didn’t really feel like two nights. They felt more like stepping into a different era, one you secretly wish you could stay in a little longer.
Accommodation
Honestly, Vila Muhr doesn’t really “do” rooms. There are only four suites in the whole place – and it’s more like you’re stepping into a story and just happen to be sleeping there.
Each suite is named after someone who actually lived and breathed in these halls some time ago, people you might know – like Prince George, Princess Olga, and Prince Paul. It’s less like a hotel and more like you’ve been dropped into a lost chapter of Bohinj’s history. For our stay, we went with the Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark suite.
And look… we didn’t just book a room. We booked a mood.
The second we opened the door, it was that “okay, this is the one” feeling. The suite just wraps you up in warm timber, dark tones, and soft, flickering lights. It’s that kind of cozy alpine elegance that makes you want to throw on a bathrobe immediately and cancel all your other plans.
There were faux-fur blankets, vintage skis leaning against the walls, and a lovely ethanol fireplace – just a few quiet reminders that this villa has seen a lot more winters and royal dinners than we ever will.
The suite itself is huge, too. About 70 square meters, but it felt bigger. There was a dining area, a kitchenette, and enough seating that you could basically host a small book club (or just collapse in five different spots after a hike).
But the real winner? The in-room spa bath. Zero competition.
Nothing beats coming back from a full day hike in the Julian Alps, dropping your gear on the floor, and sinking into a warm jacuzzi. They even left these scented bath salts to turn your time there into a real ritual. The bathroom felt like a boutique spa itself: double sinks, a walk-in shower, and lighting that’s way more forgiving than any mirror I have at home.
Then you also have the terrace.
A private balcony looking between the trees at the mountains. The colors kept shifting – soft pinks in the morning, deep shadows in the afternoon. And even though the balcony was towards the streets it felt extremely quiet since there aren’t so many cars passing by. We’d go out for “just a minute” of fresh air and end up standing there for ten.
The room had all the luxury stuff, obviously – a super comfy king-size bed, a real coffee machine, fast WiFi, and a 4K TV with all the apps. Not that we used the TV much. The mountains were better.
Everything in the Princess Marina Suite just felt… right. Stylish but warm. High-end but not pretentious. It was the perfect cocoon for our first two nights in Bohinj.
And then… Hotel Bohinj surprised us too
Moving from Vila Muhr to its sister property was a total trip, even though it was just a few steps away. If you don’t fancy going out in the cold you could even move from one hotel to the other through a secret underground passage – that’s also an art gallery showing the history of this place.
The contrast between the two hotels was huge – but honestly, in the best way possible. If the villa was a hidden royal lodge tucked away in the pines, Hotel Bohinj was like a modern lookout tower built for one thing: the views. All rooms have massive windows overlooking the lake but some rooms are a little bit better than other.
We were lucky enough to stay in a corner suite on the top floor and it was just spectacular: 48 square meters, wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows and views to die for. You get a panoramic sweep that starts at the lake, climbs the mountain walls on both sides, and goes all the way up to the mighty Triglav peak.
It seriously felt like the Julian Alps were putting on a private show just for us.
And yeah – this suite had a jacuzzi too. But it was a completely different vibe: modern, raw, and clad in Slovenian marble. It’s right by the window too, so you can soak in while watching the clouds drift over the lake and the mountains. I’m not even going to admit how much time we spent in there.
The whole suite was decked out in local larch wood with these subtle mountain silhouettes behind the bed glowing through the ambient lighting. It was clean and modern, but still really cozy. They even had these slippers made from recycled felt – basically old plastic bottles – that were also present at Vila Muhr.
We knew Slovenia is big on sustainability, but these guys really take it to the next level. Now back to our room. There’s a separate living area with a sofa, a massive bed, and all the usual stuff like the minibar and fast WiFi. But let’s be real – the windows really steal the show. That, and the terrace.
Waking up there was like opening your eyes right in the heart of the nature.
Two suites, two totally different moods, but both of them just stuck with us. Vila Muhr was all about the history and the quiet. Hotel Bohinj literally lifted us into the landscape. Somehow, both suites felt exactly right.
Food & Drinks
Now it’s time for a quick confession: We actually missed out on dinner at Vila Muhr.
Their gourmet restaurant only opens on specific nights, and our time there just didn’t line up with the schedule. A total tragedy, I know, but it’s also the perfect excuse to come back here in the near future.
When you see the dining room, with that massive fireplace glowing like something out of a design magazine, you realize just how much you’re missing. Their “nature-to-culture” philosophy and the local sourcing sounds incredible. Consider it a lesson learned; we’re fixing that next time.
Breakfast, though? We did that. And honestly, it was outstanding.
Since there are only four suites in the whole villa, breakfast feels more like a private ritual. It’s quiet. Slow. Almost meditative, really. There are only a few other guests, the room is filled with these quirky alpine details, and the morning light hits everything just right.
And the actual spread? Unreal.
We’re talking warm sourdough, thick local butter, and a honey lineup that felt like a professional tasting flight – acacia, linden, spruce, chestnut, even silver fir. Then you have the homemade pâté, smoked Bohinj trout, fresh jams… everything felt so personal. The omelette was perfection, and the Kaiserschmarrn with berries? One of those dishes that makes you completely forget that things like calories even exist.
Even without the dinner, Vila Muhr’s culinary experience definitely left its mark on us. But let’s head to..
Hotel Bohinj — Where We Actually Had Dinner!
Since Vila Muhr’s kitchen was taking a breather during our stay, we headed over to Hotel Bohinj for all our dinners (and two extra breakfasts). It’s just a few minutes away, and honestly, it was a real treat every night.
The restaurant there has that classic alpine vibe, with lots of warm wood and soft lighting. The whole place was designed to make you feel like you’re part of the landscape outside. Everything was built around local ingredients and stories, from the tables to the dishes. And you really feel that the second you sit down.
Dinner at Hotel Bohinj was – in just one word – fantastic. The staff was genuinely kind, the atmosphere totally relaxed, and the food was always really good, no matter what we picked from the menu.
It’s exactly what you need after a long day of hiking or driving. The dishes were comforting but still refined. Beautifully plated, but without any of that annoying pretentiousness.
You just get these strong local flavors and a real sense that everything on your plate came from right there.
Breakfasts at Hotel Bohinj were just as good. They have a dedicated “local corner” on the buffet packed with Bohinj specialties—cheeses, cured meats, local breads, all of it. You can go light with fruit and smoothies or just dive into the pastries. There’s no wrong move here.
The vibe makes it even better. You’ve got these massive windows with mountain silhouettes in the background and that calm morning energy that Bohinj just does so well. Whether we were tucked into the dining room or having a second coffee on the terrace, it all felt grounded and real.
Between the slow, intimate mornings at Vila Muhr and the warm, generous dinners at Hotel Bohinj, we got a real taste of what this place is about. One was quiet and refined; the other was lively and comforting. Both were packed with local pride.
And yeah, we’re definitely going back to Vila Muhr for that dinner we missed. It’s officially on the bucket list.
Experiences
One thing that’s very cool about Vila Muhr is that your “wellness area” is not just some room with a sauna or a pool, it’s the Julian Alps themselves. But before we get to the wild stuff and the mountains, let’s talk about the more “civilized” side of things.
Every morning, guests at the villa get exclusive access to the spa at Hotel Bohinj. To get to the spa, you can go in your bathrobe though that underground passageway I’ve mentioned before, which honestly made us feel like we were heading into some kind of high-end mountain hideout.
You can get a private two-hour slot at the spa each day and there you’ll find an outdoor massage pool, Finnish and Turkish saunas, and a salt-wall room where you can just sit, breathe, and pretend you’re a much more relaxed version of yourself.
If you need something a bit more special they also offer numerous in-room treatments as well. We didn’t get to experience any massages, but the magnesium sports massage from their spa menu sounded really tempting, especially after we spent the previous day pretending we were Olympic-level hikers.
And speaking of the trails… we did a full-day circuit hike in the Triglav National Park and it was simply incredible! The hike took us through the Seven Lakes Valley and even though it was around 10 hours in total (photo and lunch stops included) and it was a bit more intense than expected, we totally recommend it! Here’s an in-depth guide on how you can do it as well. Now back to the hotel.
You won’t find a gym or a big swimming pool at Vila Muhr, but honestly? You won’t miss them. You’re literally surrounded by lakes (in which you can even swim), spectacular gorges, and vertical walls of rock.
You can kayak, cycle the valley (we did that as well and it was such a lovely experience), or take the Vogel cable car straight into the clouds. There’s even paragliding if you want a massive hit of adrenaline (or a quick reminder of how tiny you are compared to the Alps).
But the villa goes beyond just “outdoor sports.” They’ve put together this list of experiences that actually feel personal – not just your standard hotel tours. Some of the standouts:
- Private horseback rides through hidden meadows—super slow and peaceful.
- Paramotor flights over the peaks—it’s just you and the wind. Breathtaking.
- The Skuta Bivouac hike—a total dream if you’re into architecture and hiking.
- Climbing Triglav—Slovenia’s highest point. Definitely a bucket-list move.
- Local tours to find the spots most tourists completely drive past.
- Forest rituals for when you just need to disconnect.
- Ceramics and chocolate workshops—one is inspiring, the other is “dangerously fun” (and yes, we fully support the lifestyle of just eating the chocolate instead of making it).
- Curated picnics—you pick the sunrise or sunset spot, and they handle the rest. We wanted to do that in our last day there but unfortunately the weather had a different plan.
The whole philosophy at Vila Muhr is simple: slow down, notice the details, and actually hear the silence. In a world that’s always rushing, Bohinj is basically the opposite. And it gives you a hundred different ways to prove it.
PS: You can actually Rent the Entire Vila Muhr
One thing we didn’t realize until we got there is that you can actually book out the entire Vila Muhr. I mean – if your budget allows – you get all four suites, the dining salon, the terrace, the lounge… the works. No other guests, no random noise. Just your group in a historic century-old alpine villa.
It’s the kind of setup that works for basically anything. A big family trip, a creative retreat, or one of those company offsites where people actually want to be there. Or, honestly, it can be just a long weekend with your best friends where you pretend you own a royal estate in the middle of Triglav National Park.
Vila Muhr’s excellent team can even set up custom catering or tailored stuff for you and your guests: yoga, private hikes, workshops, whatever you’re into. They’re great at making things happen.
And yeah… they do weddings, too. Intimate ones.
Honestly, if we hadn’t already tied the knot last year, this place would have been right at the top of our list.
The vibe is just perfect for it. It’s warm, it feels very romantic, and those mountains make every photo look incredible. The interior has all that old-world character, while the terrace and garden are basically built for ceremonies in that crisp mountain air.
So if you’re planning a special retreat with your friends here, a small wedding that won’t really feel small, or if you just want to have the ultimate private hideaway in Slovenia for a few days, this villa lets you do exactly that – and you get to do it in style.
Final Thoughts
In the end, Vila Muhr is just one of those places that quietly wins you over. It’s not a hotel, it’s not a private chalet, it’s an experience.
They’re not trying to be loud or over the top – it’s a place with thoughtful design, great hospitality, and a location that forces you to slow down. The way they’ve blended the history with modern luxuries is impressive, and honestly, staying in a place with only four suites gives you a level of quiet you just don’t find much anymore.
For us, splitting the time between Vila Muhr and Hotel Bohinj was the perfect move. The villa gave us that intimate, cocoon-like vibe, while the hotel handled the big dinners, the spa, and those insane postcard views from the corner suite. Together, they made the whole Bohinj trip unforgettable.
We’re definitely going back. Partly for that dinner we missed, sure, but mostly because the whole experience was just so relaxing. It’s exactly what a Julian Alps retreat should be: right by the lake, tucked into nature, and genuinely welcoming.
If you’re heading to Bohinj and want something that feels special but totally lacks any “fuss,” Vila Muhr is the spot. It’s simple, it’s elegant, and it has everything you actually need to see the best of the area. And please add a few nights at Hotel Bohinj as well. You won’t regret extending your trip here.
Where: VILA MUHR
Address: Ribčev Laz 45, 4265 Bohinjsko jezero, Slovenia
Phone: +386 70 801 144
Website: www.vilamuhr.si
