In 2006, Vacheron Constantin became the first watch brand to dedicate an entire collection to platinum timepieces. This year, the venerable brand adds a version of its Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon to itsCollection Excellence Platine.
Building on the Patrimony Traditionelle base, the 14-Day Tourbillon is equipped with a tourbillon escapement style movement and a full fortnight of power reserve. The tourbillon cage is vividly displayed on the dial of the watch, set deep into the case so as to allow for a full appreciation of the mechanism.
Vacheron Constantin designed the tourbillon cage in the fashion of the brand’s Maltese cross logo. With craftsmanship being a strong virtue of the brand, the movement, including the tourbillon, is painstakingly decorated and finished with a beautiful result. Careful hand-decoration is part of the requirement list for the movement to have earned its prestigious Seal of Geneva hallmark, but Vacheron Constantin likely went above and beyond as, according to them, the tourbillon bridge alone required about 11 hours to perfectly polish.
The manually wound caliber 2260 movement inside the watch is entirely made by Vacheron Constantin and uses four mainspring barrels to offer a power reserve of 14 days. An indicator on the dial allows the wearer to know when winding is needed, and arguably necessary feature in a watch that must be wound so infrequently.
Like other watches in Vacheron’s Platinum Collection, the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon uses 950 platinium, with a purity of 95 percent compared to 75 percent for 18k rose gold, for not only its 42-mm case, but also its dial and even the threads in the watch’s leather strap. The elegant, clean dial has slightly off-centered hours and minutes hands, an aperture for the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
The power-reserve display features a “trailing” or “dragging” hand to indicate the remaining energy in the mainspring on an arc-shaped scale that is evenly divided into 14 segments, one for each day in the exceptionally lengthy 14-day power reserve from which the watch derives its name.
Each of the 14 segments is in turn divided into two 12-hour sectors for a more precise reading. The platinum dial has a sandblasted finish and, as with all Collection Excellence Platine watches, bears the subtle inscription “PT950″ between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions, indicating the use of 950 platinum.
The contrast saddle stitching on the dark blue Mississippi alligator leather strap is hand-sewn with silk and platinum thread; completing the picture, polished platinum is also used for the folding triple-blade clasp, fashioned in the shape of the Maltese cross.
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine, a limited edition of 50 pieces, will retail for $323,500.
[Vacheron-Constantin]
